Skip to main content

Straighten a bent brake rotor


1. If your brake is rubbing, first check that the calliper is aligned with the rotor. Loosen the calliper bolts just enough to allow you to move it from side to side. Spin the wheel, then adjust the position of the calliper by hand until it no longer rubs, or only rubs at one point of the rotor.

2. Rotor still rubbing at one point? It’ll need straightening. If it’s the back wheel that’s a

3. Spin the wheel and listen out for a rubbing sound. Stop the wheel at the point where the rotor contacts the pads. Look down through the calliper to see which pad the rotor is touching. If it’s the right pad you’ll need to bend the rotor left, and vice versa.

4. Note which part of the rotor is rubbing, then rotate the wheel until the bent section is free of the calliper. With a rotor truing tool, adjustable spanner or clean hands, pull the rotor a few millimetres in the opposite direction to the pad it was touching.


5. Rotate the bent section of rotor back into the calliper and look down through the pad slot again. If the rotor is still touching the same pad, repeat step 4, but this time bend it a little further than before.

6. If the rotor now touches the opposite pad, you’ve bent it too far. Repeat step 4, but this time bend the rotor more gently and in the opposite direction to before. Repeat until it’s central between the pads.

7. Spin the wheel again, listening out for any rubbing spots. If necessary, repeat steps 3 to 6. When the rotor is no longer rubbing, put the chain back on the cassette and you’re ready to ride!


ROTOR TRUING TOOL
Also known as a truing fork, this makes it easy to bend the disc back into shape. A (clean) adjustable spanner can be used instead. Sometimes it’s easier to straighten the rotor by hand, particularly if a large section is bent.

Popular posts from this blog

ENVE M50 29" Wheels

Utah based company ENVE have been making drool-worthy carbon components for some years now. Despite the fact that carbon rims are becoming more and more common on mountain bikes these days, you can guarantee that ENVE wheels will be a talking point when someone is eyeing off a steed. Instantly, the big bold logos on each rim scream "fast", "light" and to some extent, "expensive" The kids call this 'bling'.

KONA SHRED

With a reputation for no-nonsense ruggedness and a background in the always progressive and punishing riding of Canada, Kona have been building hardcore hardtails for longer than almost anyone else. The Shred is the most expensive bike on test but it’s a proper trail tank.

GT Zaskar Evolution

While some bike models last just a couple of years, others change with the times to stay at the top of riders’ wishlists. In the second part of this series looking at the evolution of bikes that enjoy enduring popularity with UK riders, we turn to the GT Zaskar – a bike that was at the forefront of our sport for a long time and still has plenty of appeal today.

COMMENCAL EL CAMINO 3

Commencal are going from strength to strength at the moment and they’ve taken their tough trail hardtail bang up to date with 650b wheels. With its skinny rims, crankset and fork, the El Camino certainly isn’t perfect and it’s the least hardcore bike here. The handling, smoothness, speed and all-round agility of the basic bike still make it a real blast for technical trail riding though, and it’s a great base for upgrading over time.

CANYON SPECTRAL AL 9.0 EX

CANYON’S COLOUR-COORDINATED Spectral AL 9.0 looks like a bike that means business. With a wishlist of components, it’s hard not to question the fantastic price of this stunning new bike from Germany.