Got some cash to splash? Or want to find a bargain? Here’s what you need to think about...
The bike
Before spending your money, you need to know what type of riding you’re going to be doing.
Cross-country/trail bikes
-Designed for general XC and trail centre riding. Equal emphasis on ups and downs.
-90mm to 140mm of suspension travel, weights under 13.5kg (30lb), steepish head/seat angles to help with climbing.
-For under $1,5k, a hardtail is your best bet. Above that, full suspension is an option.
Downhill/freeride bikes
-Great for riding downhill fast, not so much fun to pedal back up. Capable of taking a bashing.
-170 to 200mm of travel, weights under 18kg (40lb), slack head angles and long wheelbases for stability at speed.
-Expect to pay $3k for a bottom-of-therange model, lots more for a race rig.
Enduro/all-mountain
-A middle ground between DH and XC bikes. You’ll be able to ride most jumps, most climbs and most DH tracks.
-150 to 160mm of travel, weights under 16kg (35lb), mix of XC and DH geometry.
-You’ll want to spend at least $3k to get a bike that’s light and well-equipped enough to be fun on all types of terrain.
What to look for
Give second-hand bikes a good checking-over before parting with any cash. Ideally, get a friend who’s handy with a spanner to have a look too. See if the gears and brakes work, there are any leaks from the fork/shock and how worn the paintwork is – these’ll all give you clues as to how well it’s been looked after. Look for cracks in key areas too, such as shock mounts, chainstay welds and head tube joins.
Buying tips
It’s a minefield out there, so use this insider knowledge to keep your money safe and your purchase informed
Buying new
You could buy your next bike online, and you might save some money on the purchase price, but you probably won’t be able to get a test ride and there’s unlikely to be the same level of aftercare that a local bike shop can offer. Build up a good relationship with the staff at your local store and after a while they may offer you a discount anyway.
Second-hand
You get a lot more for your money buying secondhand – as long as the bike has been treated well. eBay is a good place to start looking. Lots of bike websites have buy/sell sections on their forums too. Check the bike out thoroughly (see above) before handing over any cash. Expect to have to spend a little extra to sort out any niggles.
Bargain basement
If you’re strapped for cash, you’re going to have to look at bikes that are a few years older. This means they won’t have the latest technology and standards, but bikes with 26in wheels and non-Boost axles still ride brilliantly, so there’s no reason not to buy one. Some shops will have old 26in stock too, so get scouring the web!
Full disclosure
If you’re unsure about anything on the bike, a second-hand seller wants to meet you in a dodgy location or the website you’re thinking of buying from doesn’t look totally legit, be prepared to walk away. You may have set your sights set on a particular bike, but if the deal doesn’t feel right, it normally isn’t!