If you’re looking for a shiny new steed but are bamboozled by all the different wheel sizes, riding disciplines, frame types and component choices, then you’re not alone. In fact, there’s never been a more confusing time to buy a mountain bike. So it’s a good thing we’re here to help you navigate the potential minefield that is choosing a new ride. So before you get hooked in by a sparkly paint job or dazzled by brand-name parts, read on..
Know your niche
ARE YOU A TRAIL RIDER, XC WHIPPET OR ENDUROIST?
Being able to see the wood for the trees is a challenging task, especially with all the seriously tempting bike porn filling the pages of MBUK. But even if you’re lucky enough to have an unlimited budget, it’s important to think about what type of riding you’re going to be doing and where. People often end up ‘over-biked’. The latest enduro rig with six inches of suspension travel, a burly build and four-pot brakes may look pretty, but it’ll leave you with lots of excess weight to haul around your smooth local cross-country trails.
Once you’ve worked out what style of bike to go for (see overleaf), take a look at the parts. Don’t be dazzled by a couple of topspec components – some brands hook you in with an expensive fork or rear mech but skimp in other areas. The most important bits are the frame, fork, wheels and brakes, so make sure these are good.
Before taking the plunge, check what kind of back-up the bike comes with. Larger manufacturers may have a more comprehensive warranty in place should the worst happen but small brands will often be eager to please and you’ll normally be able to speak to a person, not an automated phone line.
Make sure to pick the type of bike that best suits your riding
There are loads of different types of mountain bike and new niches are emerging all the time, from ‘plus’ bikes to e-fatbikes. Some bikes claim to span several riding genres, but run the risk of being the master of none. So, it’s important to identify your style of riding before letting the spending commence.
TRAIL RIDING
A trail bike is as close as you’re likely to come to a ‘one bike does it all’ workhorse for UK riding. With 120mm to 150mm of travel – less than an enduro bike but more than a cross-country race rig – it’s the perfect recipe for making light work of the uphills and grinning your way down the descents at warp speed. You’re spoiled for choice when it comes to wheel size, with 650b or 29in hoops on most models and plus-size tyres gradually making an appearance. Some trail bikes come with 2x10 drivetrains for a wider range of gears, while others opt for lighter and simpler 1x transmissions. It’s worth paying a little bit extra for a dropper seatpost. We’ve seen decent trail bikes for as little as 1500$. Trail hardtails have a strong following in the UK too, and are well worth a look if you’re on a tight budget or don’t want the maintenance hassle of rear suspension.
CROSS-COUNTRY
Cross-country hardtails and short-travel (up to 120mm) full-suspension bikes are good for rides with plenty of pedalling and where the ups are just important as the downs. Full-sus XC bikes offer slightly more grip and comfort, but hardtails are cheaper and more durable, with fewer moving parts. XC bikes are lighter than trail or enduro bikes but not as strong, and their limited travel and steeper angles mean they’re less capable on the descents. You’ll normally find 29in wheels on XC bikes, though plenty of 650b options are available. For a competent XC machine, look to spend around 1500$ or more.
ENDURO
The enduro bike is basically a harder hitting, more descent-orientated trail bike that’s still light enough to be pedalled up to the summit of a mountain before being thrashed back down. Travel ranges from 150mm to 170mm and the bikes have slack head angles, short stems, wide bars and, often, 650b wheels. Fitted with a 1x drivetrain and thick tyres, these bikes are extremely capable machines. Look to spend from 2250$ for a starter enduro rig.
DOWNHILL
Designed for the steepest and gnarliest terrain, a typical DH bike has around 200mm of suspension travel, a slack head angle and long wheelbase for stability at speed, a stiff dual-crown fork and strong wheels. No fun to pedal uphill, they’re best pushed up or loaded onto an uplift truck or ski lift. With prices starting at around 2700$ for an entrylevel bike with basic kit, they’re not the cheapest!
JUMP/4X
Simple singlespeed jump bikes or geared 4X bikes can make good-value starter bikes. They’re normally sturdy and cheap but lack the versatility of lighter, better geared trail hardtails. Expect to pay upwards of 750$ for a beginner bike.
WHEEL SIZES
Which hoops are right for you?
26in wheels used to be found on almost all MTBs but have been phased out in favour of bigger, smoother rolling hoops. Many second-hand bikes will still have them though.
650b wheels (aka 27.5in, though they’re closer to 27in) are the new ‘standard’ and are great for everything from trail riding to DH.
29in wheels are faster and more stable on rough terrain than 650b, but slower to accelerate, weaker and can feel awkward on tight trails. They’re ideal for XC and now gaining more of a following among trail/ enduro riders.
Fatbike & plus-size wheels combine super-wide rims with extra-fat tyres (3.8-5in rubber on 26in wheels for fatbikes, 2.8-3in on 650b/29in for plus-size) for extra grip and comfort.
THE FIT COMES FIRST
The right size bike will make your rides far more enjoyable
A bike that’s too small for you may feel nice and nimble in the bike shop car park but out on the trails it’ll feel cramped on the climbs and unstable at speed. A bike that’s too big will feel cumbersome and may not offer enough standover room. Finding the right size is important. Geometry charts are useful but the best way to find a bike that fits is to try the different sizes and find the sweet spot. If you’re between sizes, we’d generally advise going for the larger bike but fitting a shorter stem. That way you get the more stable ride of the bigger frame without too much of a stretch to the handlebar and with quicker, more direct steering.
Try before you buy
WANT TO KNOW IF A BIKE IS REALLY FOR YOU? TAKE IT FOR A TEST RIDE
Bike shops often have demo bikes that you can take out on your local trails, or you can attend one of the demo events held around the country. Try to identify what you do and don’t like about your current bike before you try a different one – that way you’ll have a ‘baseline’ to compare other bikes to. Make notes on how each bike performs on different trails and use these observations to whittle down the options.
GET THE LOOK
When buying a bike, make sure you’ve got enough cash left over for some essential kit. The list is potentially endless, but these’ll help you get started...
Helmet
For XC, trail and enduro riding a lightweight and well-vented open-face lid is ideal. For DH you’ll want the extra protection of a full-face helmet.
Gloves
Whatever your discipline, gloves are essential to protect your hands from injury and the elements.
Shorts & jersey
Cycling-specific clothes are important. They’re cut for riding comfort and made from technical fabrics to stop you getting drenched in sweat, so keep your jeans for trips to the pub!
Accessories
A multi-tool, mini pump and spare inner tube will help keep you rolling if your bike breaks, and you’ll want a lock to keep your bike safe when it’s not being ridden.
Online vs bike shop
WHERE DOES THE SMART MONEY GO?
By cutting out the middlemen (bike shops and distributors) and allowing customers to buy direct from the manufacturer, direct-sales brands can deliver astonishing specs for relatively little money. In the past, flashy parts often disguised sub-par frames, but times are changing.
There are still some downsides to buying direct though. Unless the brand have a UK sales agent, you can’t examine the bikes or take them for test rides, and in the absence of a dealer network it can be difficult to sort out any problems.
If you buy from your local bike shop it’ll help you build a relationship with them and they’ll be more likely to offer discounts or help you out of hot water in future. They’ll also build up and safety-check your new bike for you. They may even agree to price match.
BUYING SECOND-HAND
There are some bargain used bikes out there, but you need to be careful
If you’re on a tight budget, buying second-hand can get you a lot more bike for your money. But be warned, the process is full of potential pitfalls. If the price of a ‘pre-loved’ bike seems too good to be true, it probably is. Thieves are always keen to shift hot property quickly, and buying a stolen bike doesn’t just encourage theft, it could also lead to your new ride being seized by the police. It’s a good idea to ask why they’re selling and for proof of purchase.
If you’ve found your dream steed then you’ll need to view it, pay for it and collect it. Don’t meet at the buyer’s home – instead agree on somewhere safe (public) and mutually convenient. If you don’t know what you’re doing, bring a well-versed friend to help spot any problems. Inspect the bike for damage and misuse like dents, cracks or leaking oil on forks, shocks or brakes. A proud owner will normally be happy talk you through the bike and any battle scars it wears. In particular, keep your eyes out for buckled wheels, frayed or damaged cables, a bent mech or sticky suspension. Search the frame for cracks meticulously.