Stay free of drivetrain worries such as a jammed chain with these smooth running solutions.
1 WE’RE JAMMIN’
When your chain jams, stop pedalling. It usually gets stuck between the chainstay and inner ring, in what’s known as ‘chain suck’. If it’s not too far gone, you can simply pedal backwards to dislodge it, but if it’s badly jammed, and to avoid frame damage, you might have to disconnect the chain.
2 IN A TANGLE
A tangled chain by the roadside can leave you scratching your head, so a patient, methodical approach is required. It’s much easier if you remove the rear wheel and/or lower jockey wheel from the rear mech, then swivel the inner cage plate upwards out of the way, which will free up the chain.
3 TEETHING TROUBLES
Chain drop-off and chain suck are often caused by a bent or damaged sprocket tooth. Using pliers or a small adjustable spanner, gently and slowly bend the tooth back. If it breaks, just clean the sharp edges with a metal file. Loose chainring bolts can also be at fault, so make sure they’re tight.
4 STIFF KINKY
If you experience intermittent chain skipping under load, check that you don’t have a stiff link: slowly backpedal and watch for a small skip of the chain through the derailleur jockey wheels. Free it up with a gentle twist or with the tool, as pictured. A new chain on an old cassette can also be a cause.
5 OVER AND UNDER
Overshifting and undershifting, caused by extreme chain lines or badly adjusted front mechs, will cause chain drop-off. A guide to keep the chain on the small ring works wonders. A Deda Dog Fang works on frames with normal seat tubes, a Token Chain Catcher will do the trick on larger tubes.
6 SPLIT ENDS
Inspect the chain connector (HG) pin before every ride. It will be black in colour, as opposed to a slightly lighter, greenish hue for the normal rivets. Look for an outwardly bent or deformed plate surrounding the pin ends. If damaged, remove the link and connect with a fresh pin, following manufacturer’s instruction.
7 BYPASS SURGERY
When all else fails, installing an SRAM chain with a Powerlink is a good way to prevent joining-pin-related problems, as well as allowing you to dismantle and reconnect the chain in order to untangle it. It’s a good idea to always carry a multi-tool that incorporates a chain tool, as well as a spare pin or Powerlink.
QUICK-FIX TIPS
1 TOOLS REQUIRED
Multi-tool incorporating Allen keys and chain rivet tool; HG connector pins; master link or Powerlink.
2 EASY RIDER
Shift with care: ease up on pedal pressure when shifting gears to minimise the risk of drivetrain damage.
3 HIGH FREQUENCY
Inspect your chain regularly, replacing it every 2000 to 3 000km to prevent failure and unpleasant surprises.
4 TO SERVE AND PROTECT
Get some adhesive frame patches to protect delicate carbon down tubes and chainstays from dropped chains.